Retinol versus epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG): Effects on molecular expression in photoaging
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Riyana Noor Oktaviyanti 1 , Cita Rosita Sigit Prakoeswa 2 3 * , Esti Hendradi 4 , Anang Endaryanto 5 6 , I Ketut Sudiana 7 8 , Winawati Eka Putri 9
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1 Doctoral Program of Medical Science, Faculty of Medicine, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, INDONESIA2 Department of Dermatology, Venereology and Aesthetic, Dr. Soetomo General Academic Hospital, Surabaya, INDONESIA3 Department of Dermatology, Venereology and Aesthetic, Faculty of Medicine, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, INDONESIA4 Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Universitas Airlangga, Campus C Mulyorejo, Surabaya, INDONESIA5 Department of Child Health, Dr. Soetomo General Academic Hospital, Surabaya, INDONESIA6 Department of Child Health, Faculty of Medicine, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, INDONESIA7 Department of Anatomical Pathology, Dr. Soetomo General Academic Hospital, Surabaya, INDONESIA8 Department of Anatomical Pathology, Faculty of Medicine, Universitas Airlangga, Surabaya, INDONESIA9 Department of Dermatology and Venereology, Faculty of Medicine, Universitas Nahdlatul Ulama Surabaya, Surabaya, INDONESIA* Corresponding Author

Abstract

Photoaging is a form of skin aging caused by chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It is characterized by dermal matrix degradation, reduced collagen production, and accelerated collagen breakdown. In this randomized parallel-group clinical trial, 26 women aged 30-50 years with glogau II-III photoaging were randomly assigned to receive topical 5% epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) or 0.1% retinol once daily for 12 weeks. Immunohistochemical expression of TGF-β2, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), and type I collagen was assessed in skin punch biopsy specimens before and after treatment. Both topical EGCG and retinol induced a significant increase in TGF-β2 and type I collagen expression, indicating enhanced dermal regenerative signaling. EGCG significantly reduced MMP-1 expression, whereas retinol showed a nonsignificant decrease, suggesting a stronger anti-catabolic effect of EGCG. No significant differences were observed between treatments in increasing TGF-β2 or type I collagen expression, indicating comparable anabolic effects. Overall, EGCG and retinol demonstrated similar efficacy in improving dermal remodeling markers, with EGCG showing superior effects in suppressing collagen degradation through MMP-1 inhibition.

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This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

Article Type: Original Article

ELECTRON J GEN MED, Volume 23, Issue 4, August 2026, Article No: em750

https://doi.org/10.29333/ejgm/19229

Publication date: 07 Sep 2026

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Article Downloads: 4

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